Making beaded toys,like this turtle is rather amazing hobby. It is not very difficult to make it. Find out pattern of this beaded turtle at beads-making.com

Creating a beaded necklace needs time, patience and the good tools, but is something nearly anyone can learn to do with ease. Follow these steps to learn more about how to create your own beaded necklace.

Tools and Supplies
Before you can start making your necklace, it is important that you have the right tools and supplies available. This will ensure you bead a excellent necklace that will last a long time. You will need the following items: jewelry wire, beading needle, beading thread, beads, beading design board, a flat surface to work on, craft glue, scissors, and a pair of flat nose pliers.
Creating a beaded necklace needs time, patience and the good tools, but is something nearly anyone can learn to do with ease. Follow these steps to learn more about how to create your own beaded necklace.

Tools and Supplies
Before you can start making your necklace, it is important that you have the right tools and supplies available. This will ensure you bead a excellent necklace that will last a long time. You will need the following items: jewelry wire, beading needle, beading thread, beads, beading design board, a flat surface to work on, craft glue, scissors, and a pair of flat nose pliers.

Step One: Cutting Your Jewelry Wire
Choose the length you want for your necklace, making sure to have an additional couple of inches to work with to make beading easier.

Step Two: Making Sure You Have Enough Beads and Laying Out the Design
Check to make sure you have plenty of beads and use the bead design board to layout the beads flat. This will keep the beads from rolling away and making a mess. This will ensure you are able to complete the entire length of the necklace before you actually start beading.

Step Three: Knot the Jewelry Wire
Tie a knot at one of the ends of the thread. Take a pair of scissors to cut off any extra thread. Keep the knot at the end of the thread, but make sure it is tight so you don’t have to worry about it coming undone. Add a bead to the necklace and pull the thread through the open hole so the knot can rest against it. Apply a little craft glue and let it dry to ensure it doesn’t come undone.

Step Four: Beading the Necklace
String the beads while threading on the opposite bead tip to ensure that the strung beads do not face the open end of the tip.

Step Five: Attaching the Tip and Clasp
Tie a loose knot in the thread end. Push the knot down into the bead tip with a straight pin. Ensure the knot is resting against the hole Use scissors to trim any extra remaining thread. Use the pliers to close the bead tip.

These bead tips should be attached to both ends of the thread, as one will allow the clasp to attach and close the necklace, while the other will hold the clasp.

Attach one of the clasp pieces onto a bead tip hook so that the loops are attached to each other. Use pliers to close the rings, one over the other. Do this again for the other clasp at the opposite end of the necklace.

Tips and Tricks
Beads that go by the name “clam shells” or “oyster shells” are easiest for novice beaders because of their size and shape.

To make an even stronger necklace, double your jewelry wire strand.

To make the beads a lot easier to string, add glue to the one to two inches on the end of the wire and allow it to dry. Since it will stiffen the wire, the beads will be easier to string.

When you are satisfied with the size of the base of your box, continue to bead around the edges without increasing (every space gets only one bead).
Remember to step up as you complete each row—you arc now working with tubular peyote stitch.

After a few rows, you will find that the edges are beginning to curl upward.Keep your tension firm and, as you round the corners, carefully pinch the corner into shape. This is especially important when making a triangle box because the fewer the number of sides, the sharper the corner angle will be.

Straight and Recessed Tops Depending on the style of the box lid you choose, the sides of your box will be either straight or recessed at the top.
To bead a box that has straight sides from bottom to top, continue until your box is two rows short of the desired height. The last row should have an up bead at the corners. Now you con simply begin to make the them (Will be in next post). To bead a box with sides that arc recessed at the top, continue until your box is the desired height (about 2″ [5.1 cm] lor your practice piece). Make one or more decrease cycles, depending on the shape of the box (see sidebar on facing page). A decrease cycle is the opposite of an increase cycle hut is identical in appearance.

Decreasing for a Triangle Box

The decrease cycle for a triangle box is simple. After you have completed the first row, every subsequent row is the same.

Row 1: Макe sure you have finished the sides of your box with an up bead on either side of the corner bead. For the next row, bead the
sides as usual. When you come to a corner,omit the corner bead, and sew directly from the first up bead into the next.
Pull (irmly on the thread as you sew the first few beads following the skipped bead so that as little thread as possible shows. When
you complete this row, the corners of the box will be more defined, and the sides will begin to curl inward. Step up to begin the next row.

Row 2: Bead the next row as you did the first. When you come to a corner, you will notice that the 2 corner beads from the previous
row are practically touching. Sew through the first bead and then the next without adding a bead in between. Bead the
remaining sides in the same way, skipping a bead as you round each corner. Step up to begin the next row. When you have finished the required
number of decrease cycles for your style of lid, begin making the inner column.

Here you can see, how to make Two Pairs of Simple Earrings. I guess that that will be very interesting for you.

STARTUP ROWS
Row 1: String 4 beads, and tic in an over-hand knot (as if you are beginning to tic a shoestring), leaving an 8″ {20.3 cm) tail.
Grasp the tail tightly in the hand that is not holding the needle until you have established several rows. Sew Through the next bead.

Row 2: String 1 new bead, and proceed through the next bead. Continue adding a bead after each bead in the previous row until you reach the end of the row. You will now have 8 beads. Step up to begin the next row.

Row 3: String 3 beads, and proceed through the next bead. The middle bead of these 3 should lie directly oil top of the one below it. Pull up the side beads, with your fingernails if necessary, to seat the middle one. Continue adding 3 beads after each bead in the previous row until you reach the end of the row. Step up to begin the next row. (Note: When you step up, you will sew through only the first of the 3 beads.)

Row 4: String 2 beads, and sew through the third bead of the three-bead set from the previous row, skipping the middle bead to form a V. String 1 bead, and sew through the next up bead. Pull firmly so that this bead snaps into place. Continue this process— sewing 2 beads over each corner bead and then 1 bead between every two up beads—until you reach the end of the row. Step upto begin the next row. (Note: When you step up, yon will sew through only the first of the 2 beads, coming out in the center of the V.)

Row 5: String 2 beads, and sew through the second of the two beads from the previous row. You should now have a second V sitting inside the first one. Sew 1 bead between the up beads until you come out in the center of the next V. Add 2 beads for the second corner. Continue until you reach the end of the row. Step up to begin the next row.

Row 6: String 1 bead, and sew through the second of the two beads, making sure that it sits snugly inside the V. This bead establishes the corner of the square. Sew I bead between the up beads until you come out in the center of the next V. Add a head for the second corner. Continue until you reach the end of the row. Step up to begin the next row. (Note: The last bead of the row will be the first leg of the first V, and you will step up to the adjacent corner bead.)

INCREASE CYCLE
Bу now you have noticed that the base portion of the square box is made up of two parts: four corners (where the increases
occur) and four straight sides (which have no increases). As you proceed, the corners increase in cycles. The square box has an
increase cycle of five rows, as follows:

Row 1: Bead around the square as usual, with 1 bead between every 2 up beads (including the corner bead).

Row 2: Add 3 beads to each corner, making sure that the middle bead touches the bead below it.
Row 3: Add 2 beads to each corner, skipping the middle bead, to form a V.
Row 4: Add 2 beads to each corner, forming a second V inside the first one.
Row 5: Add I bead to each corner, inside the second V.
After the startup rows, each cycle will increase the square by 12 beads (3 beads per side). Continue this cycle until your square reaches the desired size (about 2n [5.1 cm] for your practice piece).
When you have finished the increase cycles, begin making the sides (tutorial about making the sides will be in the next post on beads-making.com

STARTUP ROWS
Row 1: String 3 beads, and tic in an over-hand knot (as if you are beginning to tie a shoestring), leaving an 8th (20.3 cm) tail. Grasp the tail tightly in the hand that is not holding the needle until you have established several rows. Sew through the next bead.

Row 2: String 2 new beads, and proceed through the next bead to form a V. Continue adding 2 beads after each bead in the
previous row until you reach the end of the row. You will now have 9 beads. “Step up” to begin the next row. (Note: When you step up, you will sew through only the first of the 2 beads, coming out in the center of the V.)
Row 3: String 2 beads, and sew through the second of the 2 beads from the previous row. You should now have a second V inside the first one. String 1 bead, and sew through the next up bead. Pull firmly so that this bead snaps into place.
Continue this process, sewing 2 beads over each corner bead and then 1 bead between each 2 up beads, until you reach the end of the row. Step up to begin the next row. (Note: When you step up, you will sew through only the first of the 2 beads, coming out in the center of the V.)
INCREASE CYCLE
By now you have noticed that the base portion of the triangle box is made up of two parts: three corners (where the increases occur) and three straight sides (beaded in typical peyote stitch). After the startup row, each row will increase the triangle by 3 beads (1 bead per side). Continue to add 2 beads to each corner—each V inside the one from the previous row—until your triangle reaches the desired size (about 1″ to l’/2″ (2.5 cm to 3.8 cm] for your practice piece).
LAST Row: String 1 bead, and sew through the second of the 2 beads, making sure that it sits snugly inside the V. This bead establishes the corner of the triangle. Sew 1 bead between the up beads until you come out in the center of the next V. Add a bead for the second corner. Continue until you reach the end of the row.

To build the boxes, you will work with variations on peyote stitch.
Peyote stitch is a popular beadwork technique that has several variations.A more descriptive name for the stitch is “one-bead netting,” because technically it is a netted stitch with “up” beads—the beads that protrude from the row—and “down” beads—the beads that recede into the row.
The working row is always buill from the up beads. The netting contains one bead per stitch, so the result is a solid fabric of beads.

To make the boxes, yon will work with two basic beadwork variations on peyote stitch: circular peyote stitch and tubular peyote stitch. You don’t need to have experience with these beadwork stitches. By following the written instructions and drawings provided, you will be learning these techniques naturally.
Circular peyote stitch begins at a center point and increases symmetrically, allowing each row to have a greater number of beads than the row before it, so that the beadwork radiates outward. The planned increases create segments in the beadwork and give each box shape its specific number of sides.

Tubular peyote stitch begins at a top or a bottom edge and creates a beaded tube. Box sides are formed with tubular peyote stitch. If you begin tubular peyote with an odd number of beads, the rows of beadwork spiral. If you begin with an even number of beads, the first bead in a row is also the last bead, so you need to “step up”—or sew again into the last
bead to begin the next row.

To make the base, you will work with the variation on circular pevote. To get comfortable with the technique, you’ll want to practicc first. Here are the instructions for making the base for each of the four box shapes. Choose the shape you’d like to try first as your practice piece, and follow the instructions for that box shape.
Begin with a length of thread approximately 5′ (1.5 m) long and about 5 grams of beads in one or more colors that you like. I prefer to double my thread (10′ [3 m] long before doubling) so that if one strand breaks, I can make repairs with the piece still intact—but do whatever is comfortable for you. I suggest that you use a thinner thread if you plan to double it and a thicker thread if you plan to use a single strand.

My little boxes are self-supporting, peyote-stitched vessels, woven with cylinder beads. I developed this technique by applying to beadwork the same principles that are used to increase in crochet.
These boxes may be as small as 1″ (2.5 cm) wide—or as large as your patience (and tension) will allow.
The process of making a box has many steps. As you complete each step, write down what you have done in case you need to refer back later in the project.

Before you begin a new step, read through that section carefully. There are several instances in which the instructions differ for different types of boxes. There may also be important or helpful notes to help you work.
Study the diagrams carefully, and make sure that your beadwork structure conforms to the diagram before you proceed to the next row.
There are patterns and instructions for twelve boxes, three of each of the four shapes: triangle, hexagon, pentagon, and square. There are also instructions for two oblong variations. The patterns and instruction sections have been arranged from the easiest box to build (triangle) to the more complex (square), but you may begin with any of the four box shapes. Whichever you choose, you will begin making each box at the center of the base.

Beads

There are many types of beads available, and choosing the right beads for a project is essential. So, I cannot emphasise enough the importance of finding a good supplier who will be able to advise you on the best beads to use.
Most beads are sold either by weight (grams) or in hanks. It is impossible to mention every bead available, so I focus on the most common ones.

Seed beads

These are the most popular type of bead and there are two types.

*Japanese beads are cylindrical in shape and range in size from 6 (the largest) to 22 (the smallest). They are though: to be more uniform in size and have larger holes than the equivalent size of Czech bead. They are ideal for all types of beadwork.

*Czech beads range in size from 7 to 20.They are usually more doughnut-shaped than
Japanese ones, and are best used for off-loom beading and bead embroidery

Delica beads(antique beads)

These superior beads are perfectly cylindrical in shape and have thin walls and large holes. They are ideal for bead weaving where a very flat,smooth finish is required. There are only two sizes size 11 and the larger size 8. They are more expensive than seed beads, but well worth using for that special project.

Bugle beads

These are long cylindrical beads available in a variety of colours, finishes and twists. They are sized in millimetres, the most common sizes being 2, 3, and 5mm. Take care when using them as they can have quite shape edges which could cut through thread. They are mainly used for edgings and fringes.

Shaped beads            

Apart from the usual cylindrical shape, there are also other shapes of beads-triangles, squares and hexagonal (six sided) – which can give an unusual and different texture.

Faceted beads

Crystals are a good example of faceted beads. They are useful as accent or feature beads, and I use them quite frequently. They are sized in millimetres from 3 to 10mm.

Round beads

These can be made from plastic, wood, glass and semiprecious stones. They are sized in
millimetres from 2 to 10mm or even larger.